No Pressure

No Pressure

I walk out on the pier. The sun cuts shadows into the cement in a way that seems to slow everything down. My eyes have to adjust to make out the guys in the water. It’s windy; I have to tie my hair back. There is a couple next to me. They’re young. The girl is holding...
Debby Does Katrina

Debby Does Katrina

I meet Alexis in the Lido parking lot for the second day in a row. We drive. Tropical Storm Debby is churning up the ocean and pissing rain on everything. We get out to look at The Street and the ocean is a stranger, the seascape so heaving and unfamiliar I get a...
One of the Guys [Part 2]

One of the Guys [Part 2]

If you haven’t read Part One… click here. 11am Tuesday. Me, Brad and John get out to take a break and decide to go have breakfast. I’m hungry as hell and dying for coffee. We eat omelettes and tease each other. We are in Bradenton, but it could be...
One of the Guys [Part 1]

One of the Guys [Part 1]

Monday 930pm text conversation: Brad: Surfing tomorrow. Maybe East Coast. Maybe here. Me: I’m in. Don’t care where. Brad: I’ll be at your house at 530am. Me: Ok. Tuesday 530am Due to a grave oversight on my part, there is no coffee. The early morning...
It’s Summer Again

It’s Summer Again

It’s Summer here. Officially. My wetsuits, gloves and booties are all packed away (OK, they aren’t packed away, they are on the bathroom floor where I pulled them out of my surf bag– same difference). Last week brought a little swell. I ended up...
You Keep Me Safe

You Keep Me Safe

This blog is like me. On the surface it is one thing. But if the light hits it right, you can see through to the scaffolding that holds it all up. The exterior is arbitrary. This blog is not about surfing, love, design or vanity or even inspiration. Its about writing....