I’m writing this in my underwear with sand still in my hair. My fin sliced a tiny chunk out of my middle finger yesterday and it hurts as I type, but I love it. I love every exhausted moment of my life. Yesterday, we drove 7 hours to surf 9 and a half (minus an...
There was a time when public knowledge of autism was confined to Dustin Hoffman’s performance in Rain Man. Unfortunately times have changed, autism is the nation’s fastest growing developmental disability, likely affecting at least one family in your neighborhood....
This last swell was full of exciting firsts; driving alone from break to break listening to Rage Against the Machine too loud, struggling through a tough paddle-out only to emerge into the line-up alongside Brad (awkward!), inadvertently picking up a hot date on the...
Everyone struggles, some people spend their lives being defined by struggle and others by the surviving of it. As surfers, we do not differentiate between struggle and survival. There is only the stoke. On a bigger day, I still have to fight to get into the line-up....
