We take a break for lunch. A Clif bar, a coconut water and the world’s best BLT later, and I’m back in the water. Not quite as glassy as dawn patrol, but still thumping. The guys and I paddle out in different spots. I like to avoid the thick of the crowd...
I’m writing this in my underwear with sand still in my hair. My fin sliced a tiny chunk out of my middle finger yesterday and it hurts as I type, but I love it. I love every exhausted moment of my life. Yesterday, we drove 7 hours to surf 9 and a half (minus an...
There was a time when public knowledge of autism was confined to Dustin Hoffman’s performance in Rain Man. Unfortunately times have changed, autism is the nation’s fastest growing developmental disability, likely affecting at least one family in your neighborhood....
This last swell was full of exciting firsts; driving alone from break to break listening to Rage Against the Machine too loud, struggling through a tough paddle-out only to emerge into the line-up alongside Brad (awkward!), inadvertently picking up a hot date on the...
Waves in the Gulf are like Christmas, and this Sunday Santa came. The line-up was packed with giddy children scrambling for presents. I was one of them. You never know what the vibe in the line-up will be, but Sunday morning at Lido the stars aligned and the place was...
