It’s cold now. The kind of cold that makes changing into your wetsuit in the parking lot seem like a nearly insurmountable obstacle. And taking it off? Forget it. Fingers numb, fumbling for your key while the wind whips your face.My favorite part is attempting to...
When I was with Brad (before I surfed), I used to pray that the ocean would be flat on Christmas. For Brad, waves trumped Holiday (and Katrina). And while I still wouldn’t ditch my loved ones on Christmas to shred, now I relate to the desire. It’s been flat here, I’ve...
As I paddled confidently against the drift, jockeying for position among the other wetsuit warriors at Lido last week, I was struck by a realization: I was at home here. My heartbeat firm and steady within its neoprene nest, my mind quiet like an animal, alert and...
It’s warm in my bed. Cozy. I was laying there a few minutes ago. Trying to sleep. I’m here now. At my desk, pen in hand in the half-dark. Bed-headed and pillow-faced, attempting to excavate a seed of authenticity from the pile of debris that is the current state of my...
Last week in Sharks in the Water Part 1 and Part 2, I wrote about my experience surfing at Sebastian Inlet. Oliver Kurtz and Alek Parker were there, landing sexy airs right in everyone’s face. Keith Berryhill, one of my new favorite hotties in the water,...
We take a break for lunch. A Clif bar, a coconut water and the world’s best BLT later, and I’m back in the water. Not quite as glassy as dawn patrol, but still thumping. The guys and I paddle out in different spots. I like to avoid the thick of the crowd...
