Reading is Cool.
Personal Context
Words are powerful. One seemingly insignificant sentence can alter your whole life. Our lives are shaped by perception. It is not the hard facts of life that form our reality, but the lens through which we view them that does. We construct a personal context and all...
A Set Will Come
I started this project as half of what I thought was a hot, happy, surfing couple. You know, chasing waves and dreams together—unstoppable, unshakable. Well, as if to illustrate my theory that surfing represents in miniature, life as a whole, this project changed...
Surf Stigma
Surf culture has made a stiff departure from the Gidget days of the ‘50s, but the ‘surfer archetype’ of that era has gelled into a hard and fast stigma. As a business owner and proud over-achiever, I am ashamed to confess that I am afraid to tell clients that I surf....
There is Only the Stoke
Everyone struggles, some people spend their lives being defined by struggle and others by the surviving of it. As surfers, we do not differentiate between struggle and survival. There is only the stoke. On a bigger day, I still have to fight to get into the line-up....