This blog is like me. On the surface it is one thing. But if the light hits it right, you can see through to the scaffolding that holds it all up. The exterior is arbitrary.

photo scott braun

This blog is not about surfing, love, design or vanity or even inspiration. Its about writing. And connection. Writing (like surfing) is how my soul breathes. Without this act, I suffer. This blog serves as a safeguard against this suffering. The accountability protects me from neglecting myself. In a way, Dear Reader, you keep me safe.

You also keep me honest. Without you, I can sit down and write a bunch of bullshit and tuck it back into a drawer and fool myself into feeling satisfied. But thanks to the magic of the Interwebs, I can write, push a button and have an audience. The audience keeps me authentic. Its scary and sometimes, I admit, I still allow myself to feel shitty over mean emails and negative comments. But mostly, what I feel is connected. Connected to the beams and the boards that are the core of me (splinters and all). Connected to you.

Maybe the melancholy of being out of the water so long is just making me sentimental, but I guess, what I’m trying to say is thanks. Thanks for reading and for coming back.

Thanks for keeping me safe.