This blog is like me. On the surface it is one thing. But if the light hits it right, you can see through to the scaffolding that holds it all up. The exterior is arbitrary. This blog is not about surfing, love, design or vanity or even inspiration. Its about writing....
I worship hard work & persistence as if they were gods. Not because I believe life to be a meritocracy, but because life knocks you down. The only way to succeed is to get back up. Lately, life has been knocking me down a lot (often literally), only to double back...
It was dark in the hallway. The thick, inky kind of darkness that erases everything, including yourself, paints it all black. From the light switch to my bedroom is six quick paces. Enough time, apparently, to build some serious momentum. I was on a mission to reach...
It’s cold now. The kind of cold that makes changing into your wetsuit in the parking lot seem like a nearly insurmountable obstacle. And taking it off? Forget it. Fingers numb, fumbling for your key while the wind whips your face.My favorite part is attempting to...
When I was with Brad (before I surfed), I used to pray that the ocean would be flat on Christmas. For Brad, waves trumped Holiday (and Katrina). And while I still wouldn’t ditch my loved ones on Christmas to shred, now I relate to the desire. It’s been flat here, I’ve...
This morning I woke up alone, sunshine sneaking across my face on the breeze through the blinds. The emptiness of the house is palpable. The usual Elvish murmurings of Dylan waking in the next room are absent (he is with his grandparents). And the gorgeous sleepy...
