It’s Summer here. Officially. My wetsuits, gloves and booties are all packed away (OK, they aren’t packed away, they are on the bathroom floor where I pulled them out of my surf bag– same difference). Last week brought a little swell. I ended up...
Flat spell. Such an apt name. As a surfer, a flat spell can cast a shadow over my life so dark that everything looks grey and dull. I just read an article in Surfer Magazine about how surfing affects serotonin levels. Surfers, apparently, are less depressed than...
This blog is like me. On the surface it is one thing. But if the light hits it right, you can see through to the scaffolding that holds it all up. The exterior is arbitrary. This blog is not about surfing, love, design or vanity or even inspiration. Its about writing....
I worship hard work & persistence as if they were gods. Not because I believe life to be a meritocracy, but because life knocks you down. The only way to succeed is to get back up. Lately, life has been knocking me down a lot (often literally), only to double back...
In New Smyrna you can drive on the beach. You drive really slow so as not to run over the small children who will dart out in front of you like wild animals; and you park on the beach (very carefully, so as not to flatten the taut ass of a Bud Light drinker who has...
